She never trained to be a fashion designer; instead she studied art and literature at … January 21, 2016. But, over the years-with collections like that of the infamous "bumps" for 1997 to the black vinyl dymaxion-like collage dresses for Spring/Summer 2009-she has systematically reimagined the human form. Kawakubo published her own bi-annual magazine, 'Six' (standing for 'sixth sense'), in the early 1990s. Rei Kawakubo is not one of fashion’s escapists. I decided to start from zero, from nothing, to do things that have not been done before, things with a strong image. By Lauren Valenti. Sep 15, 2017 - Explore Amber Chow's board "Rei Kawakubo", followed by 114 people on Pinterest. Oct 4, 2019 - Explore ObsoleteBalance. For her Fall/Winter 2020 collection, Rei Kawakubo travelled to the depths of her imagination to create a handful of looks defining COMME des GARÇONS. [5] Comme des Garçons specialises in anti-fashion, austere, sometimes deconstructed garments. Rei Kawakubo is not known for narrative—we assume her collections to be her free-form reaction to the condition of the world—but this collection was a long preplanned event. Both the exhibit and accompanying book by Bolton are based upon the recurrent fashion dichotomies concentrating on nine thematic conceptual pairings listed as: (1) absence/presence; (2) design/not design; (3) fashion/antifashion; (4) model/multiple; (5) high/low; (6) then/now; (7) self/other; (8) object/subject; and (9) clothes/not clothes. It is impossible for the human mind to not make connections to what we know, but Kawakubo tried her hardest. [20] Rei is also known for establishing Dover Street Market, whose design ethos can be described as a Comme Des Garcons version of a department store. The Japanese designer has always been all about creating things that have never been seen before, that challenge the conventional and cause a reaction, and this season was no different. ), Rei Kawakubo/Commes des Garçons, Art of the In-Between, Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons Art of the In-Between, Vogue Magazine. COMME des GARÇONS Enters Rei Kawakubo's World for FW20, KAWS Reveals COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT FW21 Collaboration, Stussy Launches Fragrance With COMME des GARÇONS Parfums, BLACK COMME des GARÇONS x Nike Unveil Air Zoom Talaria, Hedi Slimane Serves up '70s-Inspired Rock at CELINE's FW20 Show, Shine Bright in Nike's Latest Iridescent Air Max 97 Sneaker, Best New Music of February: SZA, Princess Nokia, Snoh Aalegra and More, The Coolest Model Off-Duty Style From Fashion Month FW20, Get To Know the Female Designers Behind Footaction’s No 1 Way Design Program, Presented by Kawakubo is the second living designer to be honored for an exhibition at the Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Rei KAWAKUBO The iconic Japanese designer and founder of Comme des Garçons says that she works in fashion and not art. The black dress—and other strange clothes in which I feel most like myself—was designed by Rei Kawakubo. On a recent spring day, Erik Madigan Heck photographed six pieces from Kawakubo’s fall 2017 collection — called “Future of Silhouette” — on the Dutch model Saskia de Brauw. In 2009, Kawakubo even released a one-off bag collection called The Beatles Comme des Garçons in collaboration with Apple Corporation. All the heaviness of a world messed up by the actions of humans was visited on the rectangle of … "[24] Writing for The New Republic on 3 May 2017, Josephine Livingston stated: "The clothes... are undeniable. Rei Kawakubo est précurseur dans l'usage majoritaire — voir exclusif — du noir [n 1], couleur du deuil et du soir alors rarement présente dans les collections des stylistes ou couturiers [7]. Being one of fashion's most influential designers, Rei Kawakubo strives to challenge the form the traditional garment. Prior to 2002, Kawakubo has continued support for the use of LGBT references and cultural themes in the photography used in her advertisement and marketing campaigns promoting her clothing and accessories. A multi-brand store, Dover Street Market puts particular emphasis on visual marketing and on emerging talents; DSM was the first international stockist for Russian Designer Gosha Rubchinskiy and now handle Rubchinskiy's marketing, production and operations. It made a very strong impression because fashion in general was something that we were starting to discover and Rei Kawakubo was part of this ... an enormous outburst of creativity in the beginning of the 80s. But when you watch someone's challenging themselves like she does every season, it makes you understand wh… This Comme des Garçons exhibition in particular highlights key themes that have inspired and continue to inspire her creativity as a designer. Shop looks inspired by runway regulars Sora Choi, Binx Walton and more. "[6], By 1980, CDG had flourished and according to Thurman, "had a hundred and fifty franchised shops across Japan, eighty employees, and annual revenues of thirty million dollars. Kawakubo, Rei. Comme des Garçons collections are designed in the Comme des Garçons studio in Aoyama, Tokyo and are made in Japan, France, Spain, and Turkey. [23] Bolton also stated that the exhibit in May 2017 is to be titled "Art of the In-Between", and will be an austere, all-white maze hosting approximately 150 Comme ensembles. But with that one collection, Kawakubo became a lone voice against fashion’s flow of skinny, unstructured tube dresses and bias-cut slips. Their presence felt like a statement: Here we are, the most influential forms from the least compromising genius. In fashion we had to get away from the influence of what had been done in the 1920s or the 1930s. Kawakubo likes to have input in all the various aspects of her business, rather than just focusing on clothes and accessories. The emphasis on black clothing led to the Japanese press describing Kawakubo and her followers as 'The Crows'. I felt I should be doing something more directional, more powerful. [11] Her designs have inspired many other late designers like the Belgian Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester, as well as Austrian designer Helmut Lang. [21] In an article for Business of Fashion in April 2017, Tim Blanks reported generated revenue for CDG and its affiliates as "over $280 million a year". [3], In 1969, she established her own company, Comme des Garçons Co. Ltd in Tokyo[4] and opened up her first boutique there in 1975. [26] In the context of the human form, the body is radically reconsidered. Though the colour is often deemed as timeless, Kawakubo constantly tries to reimagine it in new contexts: “I wanted to find tomorrow’s black.” Announcement of Kawakubo exhibition in New York 2017, "The Misfit: Rei Kawakubo is a Japanese avant-gardist of few words, and she changed women's fashion", "Rei Kawakubo | #BoF500 | The Business of Fashion", "History of Fashion Designer Rei Kawakubo", "Junya Watanabe - Designer Fashion Label", vmagazine.com Comme des Garçons and the most avant-garde underwear around, "Rei Kawakubo and H & M: A collaboration to watch", "Meeting of two worlds - H&M/COMME DES GARÇONS debuts today in Tokyo", "Gosha Rubchinskiy's Dover Street Market Photo Diary", "On the Eve of the Comme des Garçons Retrospective, the Notoriously Reclusive Rei Kawakubo Speaks Out", "Rei Kawakubo, the Nearly Silent Oracle of Fashion", "A Conversation About Rei Kawakubo, Founder of Comme des Garçons", Dover Street Market - Comme des Garçons London store official web site, Comme des Garçons Company official web site, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rei_Kawakubo&oldid=1005617673, Short description is different from Wikidata, Articles containing Japanese-language text, Wikipedia articles with BIBSYS identifiers, Wikipedia articles with CANTIC identifiers, Wikipedia articles with CINII identifiers, Wikipedia articles with PLWABN identifiers, Wikipedia articles with RKDartists identifiers, Wikipedia articles with SNAC-ID identifiers, Wikipedia articles with SUDOC identifiers, Wikipedia articles with Trove identifiers, Wikipedia articles with WORLDCATID identifiers, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, Comme des Garçons Robe De Chambre (discontinued), ディヤン スディック Deyan Sudjic『Rei Kawakubo and COMME des GARÇONS』, フランス グラン FRANCE GRAND『MÉMOIRE DE LA MODE COMME des GARÇONS』KORINSHA PRESS、1998年5月, 南谷えり子『The Study of COMME des GARÇONS』リトル・モア、2004年7月, 清水早苗・NHK番組制作班『Unlimited:COMME des GARÇONS』出版：, This page was last edited on 8 February 2021, at 16:34. Originally created in 2004 in London's Dover Street, more DSM locations have opened in Tokyo, Beijing, Singapore, New York and Los Angeles. [18][19] Kawakubo created the 2008 autumn "guest designer" collection at H&M, designing men's and women's clothing along with some children's and a unisex perfume. May 7, 2015. Both also were involved in designing for the casual women's knitwear line "Comme des Garçons Tricot". Get the latest news in women's streetwear, fashion and more. Comme des Garçons Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews. Take a look at the Fall/Winter 2020 COMME des GARÇONS collection in the gallery above, and for more from Paris Fashion Week, don’t miss all the best street style looks here. Challenging the established notions of beauty she created an uproar at her debut Paris fashion show where journalists labeled her clothes 'Hiroshima chic' amongst other things. Rei Kawakubo /Art of the In BetweenComme des Garçons Since founding Comme des Garçons (“like some boys”) in 1969, the Tokyo-based designer Rei Kawakubo (born 1942) has consistently defined and redefined the aesthetics of our time. It featured very little text and consisted mainly of photographs and images that she deemed inspiring. Rei Kawakubo’s Offbeat Beauty at Collecting Comme The latest exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) inspired by Rei Kawakubo and her vision for fashion will blow you away. Fashion: Another world of style: Rei kawakubo. [1] In an interview with Vogue in April 2017, Andrew Bolton, the curator for the Kawakubo exhibit at the Met stated: "I really think her influence is so huge, but sometimes it’s subtle. BY Stephen Crafti There’s a New Comme des Garçons Movie—But It’s Not About What You Think It Is Rei Kawakubo is the creative director of Comme des Garçons, which, despite operating according to an unconventional ethos rooted in raw creativity, she has grown into a business turning over more than $220 million a year. Joffe stated that Kawakubo might remain open to the possibility of allowing the current exhibition at the Met to be moved to other locations and museums around the world after it ends its venue in New York on 4 September 2017, though a newly designed exhibition on other themes or concepts was strongly discounted.[28]. Its focus is Kawakubo's collection Body Meets Dress—Dress Meets Body, which proposes a radical rethinking of the human form through down-padded garments of stretch nylon and polyurethane in a range of colors and patterns—including girlish bubblegum pink and powder blue gingham. In 1994, Kawakubo’s Metamorphosis collection, autumn–winter 1994–95, made use of abject boiled woollens, shrunk after construction into ill-fitting sweaters, military-inspired greatcoats and despoiled work wear. By doing this, she is also questioning ideas surrounding gender and the body creating transgressive forms, discarding stereotypes surrounding the female. Tulle, textures and logo-printed socks reigned supreme, and the Fall/Winter 2020 range was COMME des GARÇONS through and through. HYPEBAE® is a registered trademark of 101 Media Lab Ltd, in the U.S. and Hong Kong. The Japanese designer has always been all about creating things that have never been seen before, that challenge the conventional and cause a reaction, and this season was no different. Her early life in Japan was summarized by Judith Thurman in a New Yorker article from 2005 stating: "She was the oldest of her parents' three children and their only daughter... Their father was an administrator at Keio University, a prestigious institution founded by the great Meiji educator and reformer Fukuzawa Yukichi, a champion of Western culture and, according to Kawakubo, of women's rights. New tracks and remixes for your playlist. Runway. Stay updated on the latest news with our carefully curated newsletters. 's board "Rei kawakubo" on Pinterest. After the end of her first decade with Comme de Garcons, in 1982, Kawakubo began to express her dissatisfaction with the early direction of some of her design ideas stating: "Three years ago I became dissatisfied with what I was doing. Between the 1980s and 1990s Kawakubo was in a relationship with fellow 'Hiroshima Chic' fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto, but the relationship ended. The exhibition shows about 150 pieces of Kawakubo’s women’s wear for Comme des Garçons, from the early 1980s to the present day."[25]. During the NHK broadcast for Kawakubo, Gaultier stated: "I believe that Kawakubo is a woman with extreme courage. It’s not about copying her; it’s the purity of her vision... Rei was really involved in the design of the exhibit". She is the founder of Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market. By Lynn Yaeger. According to Women's Wear Daily, she is a fashion icon but, during an interview, she said she does not think of herself as an icon. She lives in Tokyo but often travels to Paris to visit her companies' head offices in the Place Vendôme. (Kawakubo is reportedly the first one in the office in the morning and the last to leave at night.) [10] During the interviews broadcast, Alexander McQueen stated: "When Kawakubo designs a collection, it seems kind of absurd, not just to the general public. Yet she also has an aspect of a fighting woman, one who fears nothing as she thrusts forward. "[2], Although not formally trained as a fashion designer, Kawakubo did study fine arts and literature at Keio University. "[10], Two other early supporters of Kawakubo were Jean-Paul Gaultier and Donna Karan. Bodine, S., & Idzelis, D. (2002). She is greatly involved in graphic design, advertising, and shop interiors believing that all these things are a part of one vision and are inextricably linked. He and Kawakubo married in 1992, at the Paris City Hall. But when you watch someone's challenging themselves like she does every season, it makes you understand why you are in fashion in the first place because of people like her. Son usage se répand dans les rues de Tokyo [ 8 ] , le succès est là [ 6 ] . When I see her creations, I feel the spirit of a young girl. As reported by Thurman, "In 1960, Kawakubo enrolled in her father's university and took a degree in 'the history of aesthetics', a major that included the study of Asian and Western art. Kawakubo later went on to marry Adrian Joffe, the current CEO of Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market. View selected images from the exhibition "Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between." Since 2003, Kawakubo has been referenced and cited by other major designers for her originality and contribution to fashion and design marked by a nationally broadcast program of interviews concerning her work by NHK (Japan Broadcasting Company). In her collection "Bad Taste," she conflates both punk and fetish styles into one garment using seemingly cheap materials like polyester. Staying true to his vision of the Parisian bourgeoisie. (Duffle coat) Giaccone in lana con tanto di cappuccio, lungo fino ai fianchi o al ginocchio, chiuso da alamari di corda a forma di olivetta che dovevano andare a infilarsi in occhielli fatti di un cappio di corda o di pelle. Rei Kawakubo voit le jour en 1942 à Tokyo. [1], Rei Kawakubo was born on 11 October 1942 in Tokyo. Rei Kawakubo Makes Rare Fashion Week Appearance at Gosha Rubchinskiy. This was designed in collaboration between Rei and architect Future Systems and interior designer Takao Kawasaki. Most of the paddings are arranged asymmetrically, creating bulbous swellings that present … For her Fall/Winter 2020 collection, Rei Kawakubo travelled to the depths of her imagination to create a handful of looks defining COMME des GARÇONS. See more ideas about rei kawakubo, comme des garcons, rei. Kawakubo is known to be quite reclusive and media shy, preferring her innovative creations to speak for themselves. vintage COMME DES GARCONS 2005 beige cotton bow bustle bow raw cut skirt S Brand: Comme Des Garcons Designer: Rei Kawakubo Collection: AD2005 Model Name / Style: Bustle skirt Materia... Category Early 2000s Rei Kawakubo Clothing. 2021 Hypebeast Limited. [9] In 1996 Rei was guest editor of the high art publication Visionaire. She proposes new ideas of beauty by creating organic forms and protrusions in her garments, creating outfits that discard standard sizes. Rei Kawakubo (川久保 玲, Kawakubo Rei) (b. [27] One of her latest collections in which these themes are seen is her fall/winter 2017 collection — which she called “the future of silhouette”. Since 2003, Kawakubo has been referenced and cited by other major designers for her originality and contribution to fashion and design marked by a nationally broadcast program of interviews concerning her work by NHK (Japan Broadcasting Company). The thematic show features approximately 140 examples of Kawakubo's womenswear for Comme des Garçons dating from the early 1980s to her most recent collection, many with heads and wigs created and styled by Julien d'Ys. So for us she was part of the way we started to think about fashion. In recognition of the notable design contributions of Kawakubo, an exhibition of her designs entitled Rei Kawakubo/Commes des Garçons, Art of the In-Between opened on 5 May 2017 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. In T. Benbow-Pfalzgraf (Ed. When you see them together, he seems to serve as her protector—not just translating for her, but also shielding her from inquiries deemed too prying."[23]. "[2] During the 1980s, her garments were primarily in black, dark grey or white. Three years later, she started presenting her fashion lines in Paris each season with Vladislav Bachinskyy , opening up a boutique in Paris in 1982. In 1981, when she brought her first collection to Paris, Kawakubo … A young girl who still has innocence and is a bit romantic. [1] Two years later, she began to design and make her own clothes under the label Comme des Garçons, French for "like the boys", before incorporating the label in 1973. More Stories. We had to get away from the folkloric. Découvrez la biographie de Rei Kawakubo, ses photos, vidéos. By generating transgressive forms she strives to completely disregard gendered stereotypes, even in context of the male. Exploring new and innovative ways of creating and wearing clothes, the designer added a much needed breath of fresh air to Paris Fashion Week. The early days in particular highlight Comme’s raven aesthetic, with the iconic 1982 ‘Destroy’ collection in Paris featuring an all-black catwalk. "[10] During the same broadcast of interviews in Japan, Donna Karan added: "Rei Kawakubo is a very interesting designer to me as a woman and a female designer. To enter as a … I think we were 12 or 13. She occasionally makes visits to her fashion shows. How Rei Kawakubo Spent Decades Defining the Avant-Garde By Véronique Hyland Christy Turlington in the fall 1986 “Bonding” collection, for a Comme des Garçons monograph. The footwear retailer is supporting young talent from historically black colleges and universities. In an interview with Vanessa Friedman for The New York Times following the opening of Kawakubo's 2017 exhibition for the Met, Adrian Joffe, her husband, indicated in a taped 70-minute interview that this exhibition would likely be the last one which Kawakubo, now 74, would participate in personally. 1942) is a Japanese fashion designer based in Tokyo and Paris. An article in Vogue magazine in April 2017 summarized her relationship with Joffe stating: "Joffe, South African by birth and ten years Kawakubo’s junior, joined the company in 1987. ... Rei Kawakubo’s shows are such a trip into the beyond. Klensch, E. (1 August 1987). By Steff Yotka. It's a collection that combined tutus with biker jackets, so, again, fusing two types of garments, but also conflating notions of elite and popular culture. In the first half of the show, Ms. Kawakubo goes from minimalist variations on raw-seamed canvas skirts in the Abstract Excellence Collection (2004), to the tutus and leather jackets of … See more ideas about rei kawakubo, rei, japanese fashion designers. Comme des Garçons and H&M collaborated on a collection which was released in the fall of 2008. Her influential 1982 collection, Destroy, featured oversized, loosely knit sweaters with holes of varying size that looked as though they had been slashed open. It is a partnership with its own rhythms—while Joffe is based in Paris, his wife lives in Tokyo, in the upscale Aoyama neighborhood, walking distance to CDG’s flagship. The dark, disheveled style was dubbed by the media the “postatomic look” or “Hiroshima chic” and, sometimes, the “bag lady” look. She is a person with exceptional strength. Season after season, collection after collection, she upends An example of an exhibition in which she radically questions form is her spring/summer 1997 collection, known as “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body.” Through this exhibition Kawakubo is targeting body modification through dress, generating unstructured dresses and forms that don't highlight on erogenous zones of the body. Confezionato nella sua versione più classica con tessuto di pelo di cammello variamente colorato … Leggi tutto "Montgomery" Since the late 1980s, her colour palette has grown somewhat.[7]. All Rights Reserved. At Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo Makes the Case for Going Gray on Your Own Terms. The galleries illustrate the designer's revolutionary experiments in "in-betweenness"—the space between boundaries. During the interviews broadcast, Alexander McQueenstated: "When Kawakubo designs a collection, it seems kind of absurd, not just to the general public. Junya Watanabe[13][14] and, more recently, Tao Kurihara[15][16] have started their own sub-labels under the Comme des Garçons name to much acclaim. "[2] After graduation in 1964, Kawakubo worked in the advertising department at the textile company Asahi Kasei and she went on to work as a freelance stylist in 1967. Options from Isabel Marant, Sporty & Rich and Off-White™. [3] The materials were often draped around the body and featured frayed, unfinished edges along with holes and a general asymmetrical shape. Fusing tailored menswear with more feminine elements such as corsets and flower printed dress fabrics, "Persona" was another collection that combined the feminine with the masculine by Comme des Garçons. As models paraded down the runway to a different song per look, we saw gravity-defying headpieces, exaggerated silhouettes, veils and geometric structures, bridging the worlds of sculpture and fashion. Once Kawakubo's renunciation of the artist's role might … “Is it impossible to make something completely and utterly new, since we are all living in this world?” asks Kawakubo, which acted as the central inspiration behind the collection.